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you can see the individual brick behind the inkjet decal...
Our HobbyCal waterslip decal paper dries white, as you can see by the Tobacco text.
And with just a bit of gentle weathering with a piece of steel wool you can take some of the inkjet decal color off. We did this step with the man's hand in order to see more of the brick through the decal.
This Inkjet Decal Package includes Five full-sized sheets of 8.5" x 11" specially treated water-slip decal paper
The only thing you need to buy! No over spray, no top coat, just these sheets of decal paper.
I’ve printed my decals and I will wait and allow the ink to dry half an hour to an hour. Then I’m going to cut out my decal. I want to cut as close as possible to the edges, so that there will noy be any white showing once the decal is applied.
I have my cut out decal. I’m going to set the rest of my designs on this sheet aside. You want to keep these dry until you’re ready to use them.
I have a small dish of water here and I put the decal in. Make sure to get the back wet. You’ll notice that the decal curls up. When the backing uncurls it’s ready to be water slipped. So I’m going to just wait for the backing to uncurl.
Now the decal is uncurled. It’s ready to slip off its backing. I’m going to locate the decal on my building, then remove the backing. While it’s wet like this I can move it around a little bit if necessary to get the right position.
Now, I want to press on the decal to try to get good adhesion and make sure that it adheres to the brick, so you can see the bricks through it. You’ll notice that the decal is clear when it’s wet, but it will dry white.
Ok. Now I have my applied decal.
I have my decal applied, but sometimes a corner or two can lift up a little bit and also, I want to make sure that I get the decal really down into the seams between each brick. So how I do that is with a decal softening solution. We like to use regular lighter fluid. It’s actually Naphtha. Naptha is also used in furniture cleaning, shoe polish, camera lens cleaners, gunk remover and lots of other commercial product.
Just put a little bit of lighter fluid onto your paper towel and press down with the lighter fluid on your decal.
Depending on the surface that you’re apply to and depending on the look you want, you can actually do this step, oh, several times – up to eight times or so. After that you’re going to start to have decal coming off.
Press down again and now I can see that I have more brick showing through and more adhesion to the brick. So I’ll let that dry and then I’ll repeat those steps a few more times.
I’ve now applied several coats of solvent and if you look closely you can see that the bricks are really showing with good definition, the decal has really softened nicely!.
Now, this building is an older building. It’s been painted to look kind of worn and this decal looks a little too fresh.
So, another thing that you can do with this decal is weather it by taking just a little bit of fine steel wool and paying very, close attention to what you are doing take just a little bit of the decal off. I can make more brick show through and actually get a more classic, older decal.
Now I have an aged decal. If I wanted to, I could also do some stains and further weathering with chalk or watered down acrylics.
Depending on your project, there may be times when you want to have a clear decal instead of have the white showing. In that case, the easiest thing we have found to do that is Canola Oil. So you want to put a little Canola Oil in a dish and then just apply with a paper towel or paintbrush and the oil will actually turn the decal clear.
One thing to be aware of when you’re turning your decal clear is that the color might not be as vibrant as it allows some of the underneath color to show through, so with experimental techniques, we do recommend that you test on something similar color than on your model.
With the oil application, this decal will dry clear. You may notice that the oil turns your decal a little bit shiny, so you can blot lightly to remove some of the oil, but you don’t want to turn your decal back to white.
Also, at this point you can lightly spray or paint on a dull coat, such as Testor's or Krylon to make your decal more matte finish.
- Select your designs, you can use any design that you have on your computer, or use our Amerian Ads or Graffiti
- Place this decal paper in your inkjet printer with white-side toward your printer
- Print your designs and wait one hour for the ink to dry.
- Cut out your Decals. SAVE the unprinted portion of your Decal Paper for later use.
- Put a few drops of water onto your decals making sure to get it all wet. The decal will curl up, then after a few moments it will uncurl
- When the decal uncurls, it is ready to separate from its paper backing and use!
- Place your new decal onto your building, rolling stock, die casts, or structures.
- Press down on the decal while it dries to ensure a close adhesion
- Use a decal softener, In our testing, Cigarette Lighter Fluid works best to melt the decal onto uneven surfaces such as building brickwork and boxcar ribs.
Adding white text to your rolling stock and models
The tobaco ad and Delta power tool ad are both from the 100 ads found in American Ad Collection
"I use decals on all of my buildings. I've tried several kinds of Decals, and yours are by far the best I've used."
== Donna, Trainy Day Hobbies
"With nearly 40-years experience as a small-scale model maker, I'm VERY impressed with this product! Easiest to use and consistent best results if you follow the directions. Thanks, Model Train Software, for making it available!"